Toolora

What size should a QR code be for print?

The distance rule, real minimum sizes, and a table you can check before sending artwork to print.

Print a QR code too small and it fails silently — you find out after the run, from customers who do not tell you. This is the one QR decision worth getting right before you send artwork.

The 10:1 rule

Minimum width = scanning distance ÷ 10.

Someone scanning from 1 metre needs a code about 10 cm across. From 5 metres, 50 cm. It is a rule of thumb rather than a specification, but it is the one the industry works to and it holds up well.

Two things it assumes: a reasonably short payload, and error correction at level M or below. Both change the answer, and both are covered below.

Minimum practical size

Regardless of distance, about 2 cm (¾ inch) is the floor for a short URL.

Below that, two limits bite. Printer dot size stops resolving individual modules cleanly, and phone cameras cannot focus close enough to fill the frame with something that small. A 1 cm code with a long URL in it is not a small QR code — it is a grey square.

If you genuinely need something tiny, shorten the payload first. That is the only lever that reliably works.

A size table

Assumes a short URL (under about 50 characters) at error correction level M. Add 25–50% for longer payloads or level H.

Where Scanned from Minimum Comfortable
Business card 20–30 cm 1.5 cm 2 cm
Table tent, menu 30–50 cm 2 cm 2.5–3 cm
Product packaging 20–40 cm 1.5 cm 2.5 cm
Flyer, A5 leaflet 30–40 cm 2 cm 3 cm
Poster (A3) 1–2 m 10 cm 15 cm
Shop window 1.5–2.5 m 20 cm 25 cm
Trade show banner 2–3 m 25 cm 30 cm
Billboard 10 m+ 1 m 1.5 m+

“Comfortable” is what to actually use. The minimum column is where it starts failing for some people on some phones — which you will never hear about.

Three things that change the answer

Payload length. More characters means more modules in the same physical area, so each module is smaller. A 200-character tracking URL can need a code half again as large as a 30-character one. Shortening the URL is almost always cheaper than enlarging the code.

Error correction level. Higher levels add redundancy, which adds modules. A level H code is meaningfully denser than the same content at level L. Worth it for anything handled or outdoors — just size up to match.

Surface. Matte paper is the baseline. Add size for fabric, corrugated card, curved surfaces, and anything glossy. Foil and high-gloss laminate throw reflections and deserve both extra size and a matte panel if you can get one.

Use SVG, not PNG

For anything going to print, export SVG.

SVG is vector: it describes the squares mathematically, so it stays perfectly sharp at any size, from a business card to a billboard. PNG is a fixed grid of pixels — enlarge it and the module edges soften, which is precisely the blur that stops a scan.

If your printer insists on a raster file, export PNG and scale it down to final size, never up. Ask for at least 300 DPI at final print size.

Never send a JPEG. JPEG compression puts ringing artefacts around every hard edge, and a QR code is nothing but hard edges.

The QR code generator exports both formats.

Do not crop the quiet zone

The white margin is part of the code — four modules’ width, roughly as wide as one of the corner squares. Scanners use it to find the code’s boundary.

It looks like wasted space in a tight layout, and it is the single most common thing a designer removes. Removing it breaks the code.

Test before the run

Print one copy at final size on the actual stock. Scan it:

  • from the distance people will really stand at
  • in the lighting of the actual location, not your desk
  • with at least two different phones, ideally one iPhone and one Android
  • at an angle, not just straight on

One test print costs almost nothing. A reprint of 5,000 menus does not.

If it fails, why is my QR code not scanning works through the causes in order.